Experiencing Beppu’s Hot Springs

Steam literally rises from the ground in Beppu, a town known for its wonderful hot springs. I was eager to give the onsen (hot spring) experience a go after having heard about it from a colleague from work whose wife is Japanese.

The train ride from Shimonoseki to Beppu wasn’t very long but did involve a few changes. I’m very happy to have purchased the JR Rail Pass as making my way around would’ve been much more difficult without it.

When I arrived at the Beppu station, I managed to catch the right bus and found my hostel pretty easily. The owner was very nice and explained all the amenities about the place. I had an entire unit to myself, which included a tv, toilet, small kitchen, washing machine and anything I might need.

I suppose people who come to Beppu stay for more than one night so these things would come in handy. The only thing the room didn’t have was a shower or tub. For this you had to use the public bath or go to a more expensive bath/hot spring.

Since I’d been traveling a lot, my first action was to do two loads of laundry and hang them up to dry. Then I set off to explore the town. I had a map but mainly used the tried-and-true technique of letting the paths take me where they may. I brought my onsen supplies, which included soap, shampoo and a towel, for when I found one.

Not too far away, I found a public bath housed in a not-so-special looking building. There were separate entrances for men and women and no fee to enter. I decided to try it because it was probably used by locals instead of tourists. I went in and there were a bunch of grannies having their afternoon bath. Like everything else I’ve done in Japan, I managed to figure out the protocol by watching and mimicking those around me. Usually, it’s a good way to go.

Near the entrance, there’s a wall full of cubby holes for you to store your things, which is like lockers at a gym. I left most of my things there, stripped and took my toiletries with me. Upon entering the bath area, you pick up a small bucket or dish that you use to scoop up the hot bath water and wet yourself. Then, you scrub up and get all clean, making sure none of that “dirty” stuff gets into the bath. Once you rinse off, you can come into the main bath and relax in the hot water.

I must have looked out-of-place because one of the grannies mimed instructions to me and smiled encouragingly when I did something right. It’s not that I didn’t know what to do but that I was just uncomfortable doing it. There is no situation at home in which I would get naked and wash myself in front of half a dozen strangers, and I simply felt bizarre doing it. But, I quickly got over it and got on with the experience. Feeling a bit awkward and out of your comfort zone is the essence of traveling to foreign places.

Before long the baths were just too hot to withstand and I decided to continue exploring the town. I stumbled upon a tourist information center and was happy that they spoke English there. After chatting for a bit about Hawaii and why I was visiting Japan, I inquired about a place where I could eat some lunch (it was already about 2 p.m.). They recommended a place that sold toriten teishoku, a dish of battered chicken pieces that is famous in this area. It was really delicious!

Before heading back to the hostel and escaping the heat of the day, I stopped in on a grocery store and picked up some snacks. I spent a lot of time going through the aisles just looking at all the different things they had. I went back to relax at the hostel in air-conditioning while trying my snacks, folding my clothes and watching Japanese tv. Two of the three were very interesting experiences.

Around 8 p.m. I decided to head out to Hyotan, a more upscale and touristy onsen. When I arrived, I had to put my shoes in a locker and buy a ticket from a machine for entrance into the onsen. I gave the ticket and the locker key to the attendant, and in return she gave me a second locker key. This key belonged to a locker inside the women’s locker room (Hyotan has men-only, women-only and family sections) where you could leave all your things.

Hyotan was much more developed than the public bath I tried earlier. The atmosphere and decor reminded me of being in a rain forest. There was a special area in which you were to get cleaned up before entering the baths. It was interesting how there were stations with stools and mirrors. I skipped using the stool though as I couldn’t get past the fact that so many other butts had sat on it before me.

Once you’re clean, there is a selection of pools to try. The water in the pools differed in heat level and some had massaging waterfalls or were enclosed outdoor spaces where you could see the stars. The setting was very relaxing, and I can see why so many people enjoy visiting onsen. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really get comfortable. Floating around naked with no one to talk to was just a bit weird. However, I suppose the opposite, floating around naked talking to a friend, would be considerably weirder.

In the end, I’m happy that I tried the different types of onsen. It’s an experience that is truly Japanese. But I can’t say I’d give it another go in the future.

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On the Way Home to Kuala Lumpur

At 10 a.m., I boarded a bus to KL and settled in for the four-to-five-hour drive back to the city. Of course, this was just an estimation and the trip took five-and-a-half hours instead. Oh well, I should be used to this by now.

There isn’t much to say about the journey home. I arrived safe and sound in KL and got a quick bite to eat at McDonald’s before catching the LRT back to Voon’s house. When I got there, I was surprised to find her at home, because she planned on attending a family friend’s wedding. Unfortunately, she got food poisoning the night before and wasn’t feeling well.

This gave me time to catch up with her and finish planning the next part of my trip - Japan! My plane tickets and first night’s accommodation are already set. I just need to figure out all the rest of it. Just a year ago, this would’ve made me feel anxious and panicked because I didn’t have my plans set. But now, going with the flow is what it’s all about. No guidebooks, no tours. Just me and the road.

People You Meet While Traveling: 9/11 Conspiracy Theorist

It’s amazing the kinds of people you meet when you’re traveling. I was hoping to avoid this one – the 9/11 Conspiracy Theorist – but as is my luck, I met him in Kuala Lumpur.

As I waited to cross the street, a middle-aged gentleman approached me (I suppose having lived my entire life in Hawaii and almost a year in New Zealand I was sort of doomed from the start, but I digress). My natural reaction was to politely acknowledge him and say “hi” (and yes, I know all you big-city dwellers and my German friends are hitting your heads against the wall saying “doh!” in Homer Simpson fashion).

Apparently, “hi” is the universal signal to engage in lengthy political conversation (who would’ve known?). The man proceeded to ask me if I was from Malaysia and when he found out I was American, he became quite animated in speech and gesture.

He said he was a refugee and had just come from the United Nations where he wanted to file charges against former President (George W.) Bush and his “cronies” for unfair treatment. You see, up until recently this man had been held by the U.S. government for months with no contact with his family. I have to assume he was some kind of “person of interest” (or that he’s just a nutter, which is probably more likely) but he didn’t elaborate and I didn’t ask.

The man claimed that September 11 was a conspiracy that Bush made up, remote-controlled planes hit the towers and explosives were used to make the buildings fall.

A little intense for banter during the middle of the day while standing on a corner? Why, yes, yes it is.

Despite the cray-cray vibes coming off this guy in waves, I have to admit that he’s not the only one in the world who believes everything was a conspiracy. There are a number of documentaries that address this and many other theories surrounding 9/11 (although I’ve yet to actually sit down and watch any).

Being like many typical Americans (sad, but true), I am probably less versed in our political activity than most foreigners looking in. All I know is that 9/11 happened – whether by our own devices or not I am not well-informed enough to comment. So, all I could do was nod my head and hope that this man’s rant would soon be over (and that the lil’ voices in his head didn’t tell him to kill me).

My impression of a deer caught in headlights must’ve broken through his torrent of anti-U.S. sentiment because he quickly switched gears and offered me his number. He said that his friend had just opened a restaurant over in Pandan Jaya, and he’d buy me a beer if I dropped by for a visit. I politely declined and tried to make my escape, but he continued talking about how Pandan Jaya is the next booming suburb of Kuala Lumpur. At some point, he relented and let me return to my once-enjoyable stroll.

Now I don’t mean to make fun of 9/11, political captives, conspiracies that led to thousands of deaths (in America and abroad), mental illness or anything else that may be taken as insulting by this post. But seriously, I am not the right person to come to with any important international relations and political issues.

I’m just a backpacker trying to make her way in the world.

That’s all.

A backpacker.

And if this was just an elaborate attempt to hit on me, I gotta say that while it ended in failure, I must at least applaud his creativity, ingenuity and earnestness. Not many guys will go to these lengths (I mean, political refugee?) to impress a girl. Well, at least not in the U.S. that is.